![]() ![]() ![]() UPDATE: I ended up moving the light fixture up a few inches so that I could get the necessary slack to route it through the stud to the other side. Can I use one of these kits in my situation, or is there a better alternative approach? I have seen some no-box splice kit products, but it's unclear to me when these are allowed by code. So, what I need to do is add maybe 6 inches to the existing Romex, without a box, so that it can be run directly into the new box on the other side of the stud. However, I've learned it is a bad idea/against code to enclose a junction box in the wall, and I don't want a junction box cover sitting right behind my vanity light. I was going to leave the old box in place, using it as a pure junction box (no fixture/switch/outlet) and running a short length of Romex from this box, through the stud/shim, to the fan box on the other side. However, the existing Romex is too short to comfortably be threaded through a hole in the stud/shim and into the fan box on the other side. The manufacturers of these kits generally claim the product will work with NM cables manufactured after 1990. This NEC approved splice can be hidden behind a wall, but always verify this with. This splice and tap kit is designed for NM cables such as Romex brand NM cable and provides a fast and reliable means for splicing or tapping 2-wire and 3 wire NM cables w/ground up to 300 volts. Many contractors and homeowners doing wiring in a house have found this kit easier to use than a traditional exposed junction box. These kits served me well and I will buy/use them again if I need to make code-compliant underground splices in the future. I asked a previous question here that helped with this. Use this Non-Metallic Splice Kit in place of a junction box for splicing 12 or 14 AWG (300 Volt), 3-Conductor NM Cable with ground. Gardner Bender HST-1300 Underground Cable Splice Kit for Waterproof Splicing, 14-8 AWG, UF Copper Wire - Includes: 8 inch. I have figured out how to do this by attaching a shim to the left side of the stud and a fan box to the shim for the fixture wiring. ![]() The (centered) new fixture needs to be on the left side of the stud. I removed the old, off-centered fixture, which was placed on top of a stud (not sure if it was to code- the wiring was in a rectangular box on the right side of the stud, with the fixture bracket nailed directly to the stud). I'm replacing a bathroom vanity light fixture. ![]()
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